How I did it.

I must confess, I used a plugin to get this result.  First, I took 3 exposures (-1, 0, +1).  It was pretty bright outside so my shutter speeds were fast enough to hand hold the shots.  I began in Lightroom and merged the exposures using Photomatix's plugin to create a 32 bit file.  This allowed greater latitude for the highlight and shadow adjustments.  I brought down the highlights to get some color and detail back in the sky, then lightened the shadows to get some more detail in the shadows.  Then I increased the clarity to bring in more mid tone contrast into the fields and mountains.  

The plugin is not for tone mapping.  It uses the exposure fusion function of Photomatix.  As you can see, you get the benefit of "HDR" type processing with a very natural look.